Acclimating fish

Acclimation is the important process of how you introduce any livestock to your aquarium. Simply dumping fish into the tank will likely lead to death within hours or days. When fish death occurs in a relatively short time after you purchase livestock, it is generally not because the fish were ill when purchased (however that can be the case) but that the fish were introduced to the tank incorrectly i.e.: not acclimated to your water. The first consideration when acclimating fish or any livestock to the tank, is to know what your own chemical parameters are to begin with.

For most fresh water fish, you should have no ammonia, your temperature should be within 74-80 degrees and your pH level should be in the range of 6.8 to 7.0. (higher for African Cichlids. Brackish fish require some salt in the water and pH values that do not go below 7.0.

For salt water fish, you should have no ammonia, your temperature should be within 76-80 degrees and your pH level should be in the range of 8.0. Salinity in most tanks should be in the 10.21 to 10.23 on your hygrometer. If you prefer to keep your salinity somewhat higher, just remember that fish assimilate oxygen more readily at lower salinity levels.

For Coral tanks, you obviously should have no ammonia, no nitrate, zero phosphates (use phosphate removal pads) and your temperature should be in the range of 76-84 degrees. Temperatures above 85 degrees will result in color bleaching and if maintained at above 85 for long periods will result in RNT (rapid tissue necrosis) which results in death. Hint: during summer months use a fan above the water if temperatures get too high. Other methods include opening cabinet doors if your filtration is located there, running your lighting system for shorter periods of time during extremely hot weather, air conditioning your room, and finally the expensive alternative of chilling. Your pH should be between 8.2 and as high as 8.5. The salinity should be between 10.26 and 10.28.

Okay, now that you know the values of the aquarium that you are adding livestock too, it's time to discuss the process of adding the livestock to the aquarium.

First lets' understand why you need to acclimate. Fish or other livestock keep in plastic bags for any length of time are subjected to changes in pH and ammonia levels. As the transport occurs, the livestock urinates or excretes harmful toxins. As this occurs it also decreases the pH of the water that the fish has been transported in. Fish moved from one environment to another that is somewhat to drastically different can result in shock. Mild shock may cause the fish discomfort and a longer time getting used to your tank. Shock more extreme, can lead to quick death or slow death according to the degree of shock. The purpose of acclimation is to alleviate those stresses that cause problems for your livestock.

Note: Many believe that adding a air stone to the bag or tray your acclimating fish too, will aid in their survival...this is totally incorrect. Never use an airstone when acclimating fish. The rapid increase in air causes the pH to rise rapidly turning any ammonia in the bag to toxic levels. (ammonia is toxic, ammonia present when pH levels are very low is less toxic, when the pH is more base or high it becomes more toxic). It is always a good idea to add a product called Stress Coat to the tank, as it will help protect the slime coat on the fish, that may have been damaged or scraped during capture.

Now to the acclimation process, first determine in what your going to acclimate the fish in....the bag it came in, a cat pan, or a pail. Obviously if your using anything other than the bag the came in the vessel must be totally clean and never used for anything non fish related.

For most fresh water fish, using the bag they fish came in is appropriate (if you are unsure of the quality of the water from your source, do not use this method). Float the bag for a period of about 15 minutes, then open the bag and pour in about 1/3rd more water from your tank. Fasten the bag to the side of the tank using an algae clip or clothespin (you don't want the bag sinking). After about 10-15 minutes add another 1/3rd and then another, until you feel it is safe to add the fish. Another method is to, after equalizing the temperate to poke small holes in the bag to allow water to flow into the bag. Be careful either way you do it, to sure the bag does not collapse resulting is suffocation.

For salt water fish, a tray, or pail is probably the best way to mix water, plus you never want to add the mixed water to your aquarium. Put a small volume of water in the vessel and then open the bag and release the fish (the water in the vessel should never be more that 1/3 of the volume of the water in the bag). At this point there are two ways to equalize your water chemistry. One way is to use a clean cup to add small portions of water to the tray. Do this in steps that never increase the volume more than 1/3rd. The other way is the drip method. Take an airline with a single one way valve at the end, start a siphon from your tank and control the water flow into the vessel with the valve. Personally I would only use the later method if I was adding extremely sensitive livestock.

For corals follow the same method as previously stated for salt water fish. Never leave portions of the coral exposed to air for long periods of time. Also before adding the coral to the tank, shake the coral in the mixed water to remove any secretions from the coral that have gathered during shipment. Note: Newly arrived corals should be placed lower in the tank at first, even if they are high light requiring corals, and slowly move them to their final resting place in a matter of several days. These corals have been in the dark and quickly subjecting them to high lighting situations can lead to RTN.

Following these simple instructions will make the acclimation process as low stress as possible, thus assuring you of less fish stress and resulting illnesses or death.