Fresh Water Aquariums - Water Chemistry

In Fresh Water Aquariums For Beginners we briefly discussed water chemistry as it pertains to entering fish into your new aquarium. The purpose of this topic is to more fully discuss water chemistry and how it effects your fish and tank appearance.

pH

pH is the relative acidity of your water. The first thing to know about pH is that you have to test it so that you can keep the pH at acceptable levels for your fish. Most fish enjoy a pH of about 7.0 which is neutral. Without getting into particulars, there are some fish that like levels below 6 and some that like it up about 9, but relatively speaking most will do just fine at levels of 6.8 to 7.0.Most African Cichlids like 7.8 or more and Marinefish do best at about 8.2. Here, however we are talking about the average fresh water tropical fish.

pH can be adjusted using sodium bicarbonate to make it higher and sodium biphosphate to lower it. You must also be aware that the water coming out of tap changes it's pH with the time of the year, summer being lower because of organics in the water and winter being surprisingly high. Regular checking of your aquarium water is necessary as the pH values will change as you feed your fish, as they defecate and urinate.

Warning: never put coral or rocks of an unknown composition in your tank, they can change pH values and can add harmful chemicals. Also when purchasing decor rock from us make sure it is appropriate for the type of fish you keep. As a final note in this pH section, incorrect pH is the leading cause of fish death in newly introduced fish. Always be sure your pH is normal before purchasing any new fish.

Chlorine and Chloramines

 If you have well water you will probably not have to be concerned with these compounds. However, city water is a different story. I will not get into this subject deeply as each community and water source adds different additives into their water and at different levels. The only thing you really need to be concerned about is removing any levels that may be harmful to your fish. This can be easily accomplished with tank aging additives like "Start Right". If your city water has a multitude of additives using "Stress Coat" or "Novaqua" will resolve your problem. The purpose of these topics is to better inform you on fish care not to sell product. I would however make a suggestion, and that is, to use "Stress Coat", as this product not only removes these water treatments but also some heavy metals and adds a slime coat to the water that protects newly introduced fish that may have been abrased by netting or general transportation.

Water Maintenance

Other than the above there is really only 3 other things you need to know about water maintenance. 1. You must make water changes, 2. you must vacuum, and 3. you must change your filter media frequently. If you notice in all 3 items I use the word "must". The reason is simple, if you don't do these simple procedures you will not be successful at keeping tropical fish. As sure as not putting oil in the engine of your car, not following these 3 simple steps will lead to ultimate failure.

Water changes should be done about every two weeks in an amount of 20 to 25%. You can fill from your tap for evaporation at any time without worrying about treating any water. However whenever you add water for a water change you should treat the water as if it was a new tank. Remember when changing water adjust pH and always be sure the water temperature is within a few degrees of your tank water.

Vacuuming is a simple procedure that is accomplished using an aquarium vacuum. It is probably a good idea to do this when you change water as you can use the vacuum to clean and lift the gravel at the same time as it drains water from the tank into a bucket. Be sure to use the vacuum all over the tank floor, including around rocks or plants. Changing filtering media is best done as an alternate to your water changes so that the tank is not adversely shocked all at once. For instance, change your media one week and do your vacuuming and water changes on the other week. As you get to know your tank and your fish you may find a schedule that works well for you, but this is a start. Consult one of our customer service personnel to find out the particulars about changing the type of filter you are using, there is a difference in schedules.

Filtration

Books have been written on this subject, but here again all you need to know is that your water must be filtered. Mechanical filtration is done with the use of filtering materials such as filter floss or cartridges of some type that simply remove suspended matter from the tank. Chemical filtration is done with the use of carbon. Carbon is what keeps your tank water pure and clear. Tank water that has yellowed or becomes smelly is a sure sign that your not changing the carbon in your filter frequently enough. Carbon traps liquid impurities that are suspended in your water and becomes used or filled. Changing your carbon will keep your tank fresh and clear.

Biological filtration is accomplished with some material that water travels over and good bacteria's adhere to. Under gravel filters pull water down under the gravel and back out tubes, thus causing good bacteria's to grow in the gravel surface. Under gravel filters however require a lot of upkeep. Biological cartridges or bags of biological media that are placed in your filter also accomplish this. Some filters have biological "bio wheels" that collect bacteria's and are effortless to maintain. In very simply terms bad bacteria's that can cause harm to your fish have a difficult time establishing themselves when there are good sources of living good bacteria's in your tank and or filtering equipment.

Ammonia

Ammonia in tropical fish water is ammonium. This compound is a result of your fishes urination and other dead organics. Ammonia is seldom a problem in tanks that are kept clean with proper water changes and that are not overpopulated. When Ammonia levels reach toxic levels your fish are very uncomfortable, have clamped fins, and start to have a red bruised appearance and sooner or later they will die. Ammonia kits are available and are a useful addition. If ammonia levels start to rise add Ammonia chips to your filtering material and do your water change even if it is "off schedule".

Some aquarist use a combination of carbon and Ammonia chips as a regular routine. Again, good housekeeping will keep you from developing levels of Ammonia that are not conducive to fish keeping. As in incorrect pH levels, fish that are subjected to Ammonia "burn" will show the signs of it long after the problem has been corrected. It is a generally accepted opinion that at least 90% of all fish problems come from water chemistry problems that are all avoidable. Water Hardness Seldom is water hardness an issue in keeping fresh water tropical's as most fish are farm raised and relatively tolerant. However if you have well water your water may need softening. The easy way to determine this is to get a bar of soap and wash your hands. Do you have any problem at all in raising a lather with the soap? If you do then your water probably needs softening. Softener bags can be purchased and put into your filter and will soften water to a level acceptable to most fish. Never use softeners with African Cichlids or Marinefish, these fish both enjoy water that is relatively hard.